This is the second part of a story about Papua New Guinea. You don’t need to read the first part, but you might like to. The events described happened in sequence. My plane out of Tufi on the east coast of Papua New Guinea is delayed a day so I borrow a kayak and go for a paddle up a lonely fjord. From the air, if only I could get up there, this extraordinary landscape would look like fingers reaching out into the Solomon Sea. Flocks of parrots and cockatoos go squabbling across the jungled horizons on both sides of the water. I see a canoe coming the other way and we stop in the middle of the fjord for a chat. There are no roads on Tufi so Alfred has been to visit his uncle by canoe. I tell him he lives in a wonderful place, so peaceful and quiet.